Category: 闻香品茗

品茶作业 — 2014麻黑古树

By , February 9, 2017 8:19 pm

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这一块茶饼,干净清爽,条索分明,褐中带银,茶叶通体白毫,兼有些许紫芽。清闻无烟味,有木香,带轻微土腥气。掰下茶叶适量,拆散后置于茶荷内,茶叶大小匀称,带些许碎屑。

用沸水冲洗盖碗,趁热将茶叶投入盖碗中震荡数次醒茶,温热的茶叶木香浓郁。冲洗茶具及醒茶后不再烧水,直接用水壶中的热水冲第一和第二泡茶。从第三泡茶起,每泡茶均重新烧水。出汤时将茶汤注入公道杯,又由公道杯分注入茶杯。在品饮之前,首先观察茶叶的形状和香气,其次观察茶汤的颜色和香气。待茶汤稍凉后分两口品饮,第一口少量茶汤缓缓漫过舌面,第二大口茶汤稍多快速滚过舌面。

茶具:110 CC白瓷盖碗,白瓷公道杯,白瓷品茗杯
用水:自来水,经便携式 Brita滤壶过滤
水壶:电热水壶
水温:80度到100度之间
茶量:5.0 克
水量:80 CC左右
冲泡:5秒到120秒

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第一泡:水温大概为90度,注水后立即出汤,主要目的是醒茶。茶叶尚未伸展开来,木香浓郁。由于没有使用滤网,茶汤中有些许碎末,但是不影响茶汤质量。茶汤颜色极浅,淡黄色,轻闻有轻微花香,不显扬。入口滑爽,清甜,不苦不涩,10秒后有轻微的回甘。茶汤稍凉后,入口时甜味更加明显。

第二泡:水温大概为85度,注水后立即出汤,依然是为了醒茶。茶叶开始略为伸展,木香更浓。茶汤颜色极浅,淡黄色,与第一泡接近,花香显扬。茶汤入口滑爽,清甜,不苦不涩,10秒后舌尖和舌头两侧开始生津和回甘,双颊有轻微的舒张感,也有轻微的生津。五分钟后,感觉口腔中仍然有轻微的生津和回甘。

第三泡:水温100度,注水15秒后出汤。茶叶略显舒展,木香飞扬。茶汤橙黄,花香转淡。入口微苦微涩,下咽无锁喉感。苦味10秒后散去,舌底生津回甘,但是口腔和舌面依然有些许涩感。饮第二口时,有强烈的生津和回甘,满口都是甜味和花香,舌尖的甜味最为明显,整个口腔都有强烈的舒张感。饮后三五分钟左右,喉咙略觉干涩,舌尖、舌底、双颊依然有很甜的感觉,仔细体会时也略有涩感。

第四泡:水温100度,注水15秒后出汤。茶叶更显舒展,木香依然很浓。茶汤橙黄,花香极淡。入口略苦,带些许涩感。苦味很快消散,由舌面开始生津回甘,轻微的涩感保留在舌面和上颚。茶汤凉了之后,入口涩感强烈而持久。一分多钟后涩感转弱,舌底和双颊又开始生津和回甘,整个口腔又强烈的舒张感。喝一小口温开水,缓缓底漫过舌面,感觉到极为强烈的甜味。再喝一口茶汤,感觉到极为强烈的苦味。但是苦味很快消散,随之满口生津和回甘。

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第五泡:水温100度,注水20秒后出汤。茶叶完全舒展,木香依然很浓。茶汤橙黄,花香不现。入口苦,苦后涩,苦涩很快消退。由舌底和喉咙开始生津回甘,随后蔓延至舌面和双颊。一分钟后双颊、舌底、舌根依次出现涩感,此后再次感觉生津与回甘。腹中有胀饱的感觉,开始打嗝。大约五分钟后,涩感全部消退,满口都是甜味。

第六泡:水温100度,注水20秒后出汤。茶叶完全舒展,木香开始转淡,剩下淡淡的甜香。茶汤橙黄,比上一道茶汤稍淡,与第三道茶汤的颜色接近。入口依然略苦,涩感5 秒后开始显现,20秒后涩感逐渐消退,随后满口甜味,伴随强烈的生津与回甘。

第七泡:水温100度,注水25秒后出汤。茶汤淡黄,入口清甜,不苦,有轻微涩感。由舌底开始生津回甘,随后蔓延到舌面、舌尖、双颊、整个口腔。

第八泡:水温100度,注水25秒后出汤。茶汤淡黄,入口清甜,不苦不涩。由舌底开始生津回甘,随后蔓延到舌面、舌尖、双颊、整个口腔。稍息片刻,又觉得有轻微的涩感由舌根蔓延到舌面,不强烈。饮一口茶汤,涩感随即消失,咽下茶汤后,轻微的涩感再次出现。20秒后,涩感消退,双颊生津回甘,满口都是甜味。

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这八泡茶,喝了整整两个多小时,饿了都。看一下叶底,叶片肥壮匀称,带些许紫芽。从前面八泡的表现来看,这茶继续再泡个二三十泡应该没有问题,可惜已经喝不动了。剩下的茶叶,不舍得倒掉,留下来明天继续喝。

这一饼茶,是张师兄从北京带到帕斯,又从帕斯邮寄到悉尼的。第一次见到师兄,是在洋葱欢乐园白老师组织的茶会上,记不得是在照澜院还是胜因院了。师兄带茶,我来冲泡,虽然说话不多,却又相见恨晚。喝得最开心的一次,是在新林院梁思成先生的故居里,一伙人从傍晚喝到凌晨,把师兄压箱底的几个寨子逐一点评了一遍。三年前我移居悉尼,自此再也没有见过师兄,虽然天天想念师兄的茶,但也没怎么和师兄联系。过年之前,非常意外地收到师兄发来的信息,说是带了两块茶饼到帕斯来过年,其中一块是给我的。当时心里的那种感动,真的是难以言表。得茶友如此,阿飞三生有幸。

查了一下博客上的记录,上一篇茶记,竟然是2011年5 月写的。这五年来,竟然没有认真地写过一篇茶记,真是惭愧得很。

南山荷韵

By , December 17, 2015 7:55 pm

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三年前,我们一家还住在海南,平时在海口上班工作,周末回文昌养花种菜。一次很偶然的机会,有位朋友约我到世贸茶叶城谈点事情,地点就在小丹的金悦茗。那天小丹不在店里,朋友不善冲泡,我冒昧借用小丹的茶叶茶具做了一回茶主。小丹的茶室简单又雅致,各式茶具也深得我心。虽然我是第一次来,却有一种很亲切的感觉。小丹收藏的普洱很干净,很地道,都是难得的好茶。自此,我经常来小丹的店面,也就认识了小丹。

“南山荷韵”这款熟普,是小丹定制并监制的。在茶商这个圈子里,故事几乎是忽悠的同义词。关于这款茶,我倒是有几个不是忽悠的故事。事实上,自从喝过这款茶之后,我就再也没有喝过别的熟普。去年二月我们全家迁居悉尼,由于行李重量限制我们只带了两块茶饼,其中一块就是这款“南山荷韵”。去年十二月,有位朋友到悉尼来出差,我托他帮我带来一块茶饼,也是“南山荷韵”。几天前,另外一位朋友到悉尼来,我又托她帮我带来一块茶饼,还是“南山荷韵”。每一回,都是小丹将茶饼从海口快递到北京,再由朋友随身从北京带到悉尼。说真心话,这一款茶,值得我动用积累多年的人品来长途专递。

喝了小丹这么多年的茶,我很想帮小丹做一下广告。在海口的朋友们,如果喜欢喝普洱或者红茶的话,不妨到世贸茶叶城一楼的金悦茗去逛逛,一定不会让你失望的。外地的朋友如果感兴趣的话,我可以提供小丹的微信联系方式。

Aquilaria Introduction

By , January 17, 2013 6:03 am

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This is a lightning presentation I gave to my Eucalyptus colleagues at Santa Barbara during our all-hands meeting. I think this is an interesting presentation and would like to share it with the rest of my friends. For those who prefer to read Chinese I have an older version in Chinese that was created in 2009, and the content in that version is quite similar to this one.

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Aquilaria refers to a collection of 15 species of trees in the Thymelaeaceae. These are trees that grow in the rain forests in Southeast Asia. The heights of the trees are quite different, depending on the actual species and the geographic location they grow, but usually fall within the range of 6 to 20 meters. I myself have seen trees as tall as 30 meters in the south part of Thailand, and I assure you that these are very very old trees.

From this slide you can also see the flowers, the fruit, and the seeds.

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As said just now, these trees usually occur in Southeast Asia, especially within the yellow square on this map. This includes the south part of China, the north part of India, Burma, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, Thailand, Malaysia, Philippines, and Indonesia.

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Aquilaria is considered as the major source of agarwood. By saying agarwood we usually refer to the resinous material produced by the Aquilaria trees. Some people think that agarwood is the heart wood of the tree, but actually it is not. The Aquilaria tree produces epoxy-like material to protect itself when it get wounded, either by the force of nature such as birds and worms or by human beings. As time goes by the concentration of this epoxy-like material gets richer, and the color of the wound becomes darker. And then people harvest the dark and resinous part from the tree, which is called agarwood.

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Agarwood is well known by its fragrance, which is very appealing and pleasing. Therefore it is widely used in religion rituals among the buddhist world and the islamic world. Further more,  agarwood has a decent hardness so that people make it into prayer beats or sculptures. It is believe that if you wear such prayer beats or host such sculptures you will receive special blessing from the Buddha, or Shiva, or some other god or goddess.

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Agarwood can also be further processed to produce essential oil. The oldest — and also the simplest — method to produce essential oil is water distillation. You crash the wood into powder, boil it along with water, cool down the steam, and separate the oil from water. In the market agarwood essential oil is very expensive, way more expensive then gold. Therefore, the majority of the so-called “agarwood oil” available in the market are usually highly diluted, or even fake.

The essential oil produced can be used for aromatic therapy, body massage, as well as the “magic portion” in high end cosmetics.

I myself have tried this process, and it worked pretty well. The picture on the top-left side was actually taken by myself in my lab several years ago.

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As you can imagine, agarwood is only an extremely small part of the Aquilaria tree. When people harvest agarwood, they usually cut down the whole tree, get rid of the white wood, extract the dark part, and abandon the rest. This is especially true when the harvest practice is done in an illegal way — and it usually is. As the demand for agarwood increases, the number of standing Aquilaria trees decreases rapidly. Currently, all 15 species of Aquilaria are considered as endangered species, according to Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES).

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Starting from 2007, I myself have been actively involved in the preservation and protection of the endangered Aquilaria species. I have a small farm in Hainan, which is a big island in the very south part of China. This is a screenshot from Google Maps, and it shows where I and my family live. In this small garden I have about 200 Aquilaria trees, and I have identified 6 different species out of them. Also, I am in the process of collecting Aquilaria seeds from other countries (legally, of course) and cultivate them in my own farm, so that I can preserve more species in the future.

品茶作业(百年珍藏 – 清华大学百年校庆特制纪念茶)

By , May 1, 2011 6:15 pm

首先要感谢wuhu师弟。身为洋葱欢乐园南海分舵的成员,俺深深地感受到了帝都总舵的关怀。星期四下午通过顺丰发的货,星期五下午就到了海口,晚上开车回去园子度周末的时候顺手就带上了。星期六下午,先用飘逸杯粗略地体会了一下茶叶的概况。星期天下午,用白瓷盖碗按照标准流程完成的作业。现将冲泡和品饮过程整理成茶记一篇,请舵主与诸位兄弟姊妹指正。

茶具:110 CC白瓷盖碗
用水:自备井水,经粗纱网、细绵网、活性炭三层过滤
水壶:随手泡
水温:80度到95度之间
茶量:5.0 克
水量:100 CC左右
冲泡:5秒到120秒


这一块茶饼,干净清爽,条索分明,褐中带银,通体白毫,兼有紫芽。清闻略有烟味,花香淡雅。掰下茶叶适量置于茶荷内,茶叶大小匀称,有些许碎屑。用沸水冲洗白瓷盖碗,趁热将茶叶投入盖碗中震荡数次醒茶。温热的茶叶花香略浓,烟味转淡。冲洗茶具及醒茶后不再烧水,直接用随手泡中的热水冲第一泡茶。从第二泡茶起,每泡茶均重新烧水。出汤时将茶汤注入公道杯,又由公道杯分注入茶杯。

第一泡:水温大概为90度,注水后立即出汤,主要目的是醒茶。由于没有使用滤网,茶汤中有些许碎末,但是不影响茶汤质量。茶汤颜色极浅,淡黄色偏浅橙色。轻闻有轻微花香,不显扬。入口微甜,无苦涩。

第二泡:水温大概为95度,注水后立即出汤,依然是为了醒茶。茶汤颜色转浓,接近鹅黄色,透亮,杯底有些许碎叶。入口有微甜带轻微苦涩,苦味稍纵即逝,涩感柔和持久,主要集中在舌面部位。茶汤稍凉后再饮,涩感减轻,甜度增强。

第三泡:水温大概为95度,注水15秒后出汤。茶汤颜色更浓,接近橙色,透亮。入口涩感依旧,苦味增强,但是甜度也有所增强。入口30秒后有轻微的回甘。3 分钟后回甘开始加强,但不强烈。5 分钟后,满口清爽甘甜。

第四泡:水温大概为95度,注水15秒后出汤。茶汤接近橙色,透亮。入口苦味减弱,甜度增加,依然略有涩感。3 分钟后有明显的回甘,但不强烈,喉咙出依然有些许涩感。5 分钟后涩感基本消失,满口甘甜,但不强烈。

第五泡:水温大概为95度,注水20秒后出汤。茶汤颜色偏淡,入口清爽无苦涩,微甜。

第六泡:水温大概为95度,注水20秒后出汤。茶汤颜色更淡,入口清爽无苦涩,甜度减弱。从入口的感觉判断,这一泡冲泡时间略短,茶汤较水。

第七泡:水温大概为95度,注水30秒后出汤。茶汤颜色略浓。入口清爽无苦涩,微甜。

最后看一下叶底。茶叶粗壮,有活力,无完整叶片或芽头,有些许细小叶柄。

如下图片,分别是第一、第三、第五和第七泡的茶汤。


这一款茶,在香气、甜度和回甘等方面都乏善可陈。从叶底来看,采用的茶叶在大规模生产的茶饼中可以算是上品,至少要远强于有“普洱生茶标准器”之称的大益7542。但是作为特制茶来说,这样的原料最多只能算是中等水平。鉴于这款茶的特殊背景,个人的建议是作为纪念品收藏有一定的意义,但是作为普洱茶收藏则需要多加考虑。

野有蔓草私藏珠崖仓普洱茶 — 缘起

By , February 20, 2011 8:38 pm

余爱茶,尤爱普洱。茶人云:普洱老茶,犹古董也。典藏老茶,愈久弥珍;品饮老茶,愈陈弥香。蒙茶友厚爱,余得分享陈年老普数杯,真正是齿颊留香,令人心旷神怡。余六根不净,欢喜赞叹之余,竟自起了贪念。从此频频出入茶市,结交茶商无数。奈何茶市水深,鱼龙混杂,泥沙俱下。余学问不精,缘分未济,虽破费颇丰,总难得见老茶之真面目也。

一日,余与友人对饮。友人曰:“汝方而立之年,来日方长。何不购置新茶若干,结一草庐,束之高阁。若干年后,岂非老茶乎?汝又何患遍寻老茶之不得,又何患得老茶之不真?”

友人之言,直似醍醐灌顶。余再三拜谢,依计而行。丁亥年春,于珠崖郡紫贝县境内置薄地三分,起陋室两间,是为茶仓。茶仓四顾,蒹葭苍苍,芳草郁郁。又有莞香两株,斑竹数丛,故名“野有蔓草植物园”。戊子溽夏,承百越四邑茶商许君惠让,得新茶数件,辗转至珠崖茶仓封存。嗟我布衣,克勤克俭,为爱茶故,亦逐岁补仓新茶若干。每每斗换星移,必取茶样少许,起恭敬心,燃箕沸水,静静冲泡,细细品饮。夜深人静时,独坐草庐间。清茶阅岁月,浮叶道人生。东坡居士有一张琴、一壶酒、一席云。余不敢与居士媲美,得一张几、一卷书、一盏茶与余同老,足矣。

野有蔓草植物园主人谨识于
辛卯孟春

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